The Product Reviews

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Eleven fineliners side by side, with the caps removed and marker tips in sight.

Molotow Blackliner

One marker with its tip removed and placed by the side of the marker.There’s a reason why Molotow Blackliner is the first brand I’m reviewing. First and foremost, they’re the markers I’ve used the longest — pretty much since they became widely available in Finland. Before that, I used whatever fineliner I could get my hands on, without giving it much thought. But back then, I didn’t sketch or draw nearly as much as I do now. I was more focused on graffiti and canvases, with little interest in large-scale sketching.

That all changed when I got my hands on these markers — it was a game changer! From that moment on, Molotow Blackliners became the standard by which I judged all other markers.

So, out of all the markers I’m about to review, I can already confidently declare Molotow Blackliners as The overall Winner. For many reasons. I wish one of those reasons was that Molotow sponsors me — but unfortunately, that’s only in my dreams.

The real reasons? Black is black, not grey. It’s not the absolute darkest, but it gets the job done. It dries fast, covers well over paint markers, and — better yet — can be painted over with paint markers without bleeding through (very important, I’ll explain later). The ink is water-based. The 1.0 tip wears out quickly (as in quicker than the thinner tips) and becomes “brush-like,” making it useless for precise drawing. But even then it’s not totally useless. Not even close! Since the ink lasts a long time, I use these “worn-out” markers for filling large areas. But in all honesty, I really don’t find anything to complain about these markers. And in most cases that itself is enough.

Since Molotow is more than just fineliners, I highly recommend checking them out. Their product range is vast, and most of their tools are compatible with each other. They invest heavily in product development — and it shows. If you’re interested in seeing what’s possible with their products, they have plenty of videos and tutorials on their website as well.

And what I consider as a bonus is that looking from my perspective on the map, these are manufactured kind of locally.  In Germany, EU, to be more precise.

Many sketchbooks on top of each other, most of the books have stickers on their covers.

Sketchbooks and Papers

I’m not that picky about these. As long as the color of the paper is correct, the paper is acid free (doesn’t yellow) and it is smooth and thicker than regular copy paper (80g/m²). Especially with sketchbooks you don’t want the black bleed through the pages below. And when scanning the sketches to the computer, I hate when the sketch on the other page “shows” through the paper.

Paper

I do use regular copy papers for sketching too, quite a lot even, but on individual sheets. And even then I aim to buy paper between 90g/m²-100g/m² in thickness. These are also the most cost effective way to draw, you can find awesome discounts on bookstores or online office supply stores for various copy paper. I think the regular price for 100 sheets of A4 80g/m² is around five euros. Or is at least in Finland. If you are more into drawing on individual sheets of paper, and draw a lot with the intention of saving them all, I recommend paying attention to archiving. In other words, get yourself a good folder… or two. I won’t be reviewing these, because there are so many brands on the market yet the quality is – thanks to standards system – pretty much the same. Like said, the color (bright white) and thickness (90g/m²-100g/m²) are the only things you need to take in consideration.

Sketchbooks

I don’t want to invest too much on a sketchbook, for me 15 euros is a definite max. I gotta say that many of the sketchbooks feel identical anyway and the main difference seems to be on the cover material (and what’s printed on them) and the first interior pages. I wouldn’t be surprised if 90% of the books are manufactured somewhere in China, in the same factory even.

Pay attention: you’ll save money and nerves with good paper. Even the less good markers work actually pretty smoothly on a quality paper. And the opposite, shitty paper wears out the marker nibs faster and some inks might look more dark grey than actual black. On a good, coated white paper many of the markers I’ve rated to be closer to dark grey than black are actually solid black.

You’ll find the actual reviews here.

Close up of collection of various black markers.

Markers

Most of the markers I reviewed have water based ink, some are alcohol based. Even if the latter, they are very neutral in smell.

I mostly use sizes 0.5 – 0.8 for drawing, but for filling in the larger areas I naturally try to use the larger ones, 0.9 – 1.2. I also noticed that size 0.4 in certain brands is similar to 0.5, but 0.3 in all brands is definitely too thin for my taste. Except for fine details. More about this in the actual reviews.

Many of the markers I have ordered online, usually from Pen Store and Unfade. But I also buy them in person from my local shops Make Your Mark and Unckan. If something else, it’s stated on the review. Molotow Blackliners I always buy directly from the Molotow Helsinki store, not online.

Photo montage of Asus laptop in front and blurred Macbook Pro and iMac in the background.

Computers

A product photo of an old iMac.The first review on this site will be about computers. After that it’ll be more about pens and such. But, yeah… I’ve used a lot of computers since I’ve been doing web and graphic design since 2000. At work, I’ve always used whatever my employer provided at the time. For personal use, I always built my own computers from components — until 2008, when I bought my first Apple computer: a 24” iMac. But none of those are directly related to this site or the purpose of this section.

The first computer I used specifically for archiving my graffiti-related art, including sketches, came much later — in 2012, when I bought a MacBook Pro, which I used for ten years. That laptop handled everything: building websites, scanning and editing photos as well as writing, formatting, and designing books — and much more.

Personally, I think both Mac and Windows computers are great. Since I mostly use Adobe CC software and a basic text editor for HTML and such, the operating system doesn’t really matter. What does matter is performance — Adobe products need some serious power to run smoothly.

Back in the early 2000s, when I started working as a web designer, having a Windows PC was almost essential. You needed one at least for testing, as the vast majority of internet users were on Windows, and websites didn’t always render the same — or at all — on different platforms. (Google “Browser Wars” if you’re curious.) But over the past 15 years, browser behavior has become much more consistent between Mac and Windows, which made switching to Mac a viable option.

When I bought the iMac in 2008, I still kept a Windows PC alongside it. After buying the MacBook in 2012, I eventually handed the old Windows computer down to my kids.

Specs:
MacBook Pro (Late 2012) – In use until 2022
15” | 16GB RAM | 512GB SSD

Asus laptop with its lid open and Asus logo visible.I used this until it started freezing and having trouble connecting to external displays. It still technically runs, but it’s completely unreliable. So in 2022, I bought my current computer. Windows computer, for a change.

Specs:
Asus Zenbook – In use since 2022
13.3” | 16GB RAM | 1TB SSD

Screens

I always use a larger display for graphic design work, the tiny screens on laptops just don’t do the trick.

  1. iDisplay 24” (from 2012 to 2022, for the Macbook only, thanks to closed environment connector)
  2. Asus 24” (from 2022, for any computer I wanna connect to, thanks to HDMI/VGA connector)

I’ll get back on this subject later, with a more thorough run-through for both operating systems and image editing software.

Contact

When the Music's Over.

Instead of turning out the lights maybe You want to check out
the following exit plans? There’s much more to explore, I promise.

The Past

Check out some of the graffiti I created during the 90’s from my Flickr-page. And pay a visit to my old portfolio for the stuff I did for music industry since the early 2000. Links below!

The Present

My artist portfolio at acton.hrc.fi is a perfect place to check out all the stuff I’ve done as an artist since 2012 to this date. For example more info about the coloring books of mine.

The Future

The most current stuff will always be posted on my Instagram-account. Naturally anything related to this site will be posted (to some extent) on it’s own Instagram-account.

acton.hrc.fi

Contact