The Product Reviews

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Dark, blurred and black and white montage of logos and screenshots of various image editing software.

Image Editors

Arguably the most crucial tools, if you ask me. If money isn’t an obstacle, you’d most likely go with some version of the Adobe Creative Cloud package. After all, it’s more or less the industry standard. I’ve worked with Photoshop — part of the Adobe family — since 2000. If I remember correctly, I started with version 5, which was soon updated to 5.5. A few years later, InDesign and Acrobat were added to my toolbox. Since I work very little with vector graphics, I never really needed Illustrator. For me, Photoshop is still the best of the bunch — partly because I’ve used it for so many years.

For both personal and financial reasons, I’ve wanted to find alternatives to Adobe CC products for quite some time. One serious contender, available for both Windows and Mac, is Affinity Photo 2 (or the full Affinity Suite, if you also want publishing and vector tools). A small but dedicated community also speaks highly of GIMP, which is available on all three major platforms. It’s definitely an option, but it has a few downsides: it’s a large program with a somewhat cluttered user interface. It offers plenty of features — possibly even more than Photoshop — but after using Photoshop for over 20 years, I found Affinity Photo 2 much easier to approach and adopt than GIMP. Its logic and user interface feel more familiar, so to speak.

That said, I actually had all three — Photoshop, Affinity Photo, and GIMP — installed on my computer, and I’ve used them all for the material on this very site. Still, around 90% of the content went through Adobe Photoshop. That’s about to change, though, since I discontinued my Creative Cloud subscription and bought Affinity Photo 2 instead.

I have to add that while I was able to work with GIMP, I didn’t enjoy the experience. Tasks that took mere seconds in Photoshop could take several minutes in GIMP — and often required Googling for instructions. Sure, some features in Affinity also required a bit of online research at first, but overall, I’ve found using it to be much smoother.

I’ll admit, there are plenty of tutorials available for all of these programs, so if you’re determined, you’ll learn whichever one you choose. I chose Affinity Photo 2.

For simple tasks like editing drawings, any of these three programs are honestly overkill. You can easily manage with more basic and affordable tools like Photoshop Lightroom, PaintShop Pro, or ACDSee. Even XnView MP is capable of basic editing, though I mainly use it to replace Adobe Bridge. The latter is an asset manager included in the Adobe CC suite that allows you to preview, organize, edit, rate, and publish images to Adobe Stock.

A very quick note about Procreate — it’s an awesome app, but I don’t use it. It’s a versatile drawing (or more precisely, illustration) tool, not an image editor. Also, it only runs on iOS — meaning iPad or iPhone. I no longer use either device, so this isn’t relevant to me anymore. But for a brief time I had an iPad with Procreate, and I have to say, it’s an excellent tool for sketching, drawing, and creating mockup designs. However, once my iPad broke, I didn’t have the money — or the need — to replace it. Besides, I prefer drawing on actual paper with a pen anyway.

Dark, blurred and black and white montage of logos and screenshots of various operating systems.

Software

Now, let’s continue where I left on the “Computers” article… In order to actually get anything done and delivered to the public, having just a computer and art supplies isn’t enough. You naturally need the right software to handle all the necessary tasks — and there’s plenty of those where I come from. I’ll say a few words about the operating system first, but I’ll leave my thoughts on image editors for a separate article.

Naturally, the computer you choose more or less determines the operating system — or vice versa. If you want to use Windows, you can choose any computer except those made by Apple. And if you go with a Mac, macOS is your only real option. No, we’re not talking about virtual machines, Boot Camp, or any other advanced workarounds. In my opinion, those just introduce more trouble or, at the very least, complicate your workflow. We’re doing design work here, not tinkering with operating systems. We want everything — both the OS and the software — to launch and run as quickly and smoothly as possible. Which realistically leaves us with two options: Windows or macOS.

What about Linux? Well… you can use it, if you want to. But if you’re only looking for an alternative to Windows, I’d recommend macOS — it’s Unix-based anyway, and most of the features people seek from Linux are already available there. That said, if you insist on using Linux, be aware that it requires a bit more technical understanding and you’ll be limiting yourself to even fewer software options. Except when it comes to the OS itself — in that case, the sky’s the limit with the countless Linux distributions available. As for software, GIMP 3.0 and XnView MP are the only serious image-related tools I know of that work well on Linux. Everything else I’ve reviewed runs on macOS, Windows, or both.

Don’t get me wrong — I have nothing against Linux, even if I’m not currently using it myself. Yet. I am tempted to give it a try… if and when I ever find the time. Which, realistically, might be never.

I’ve used Windows since Windows 95, but for the work featured on this site, I’ve been using versions 10 and 11. On the Mac side, I’ve worked with versions ranging from 10.8 to 10.15.

Many designers — especially those working across both web and print — may choose to use both Windows and Mac. That’s what I did for years too. That’s also because the very little software I need runs on both platforms.

A pen.

Loop Colors

It took me a while to realize that Loop Colors manufactures fineliners too. Their spray paint is definitely among the best, and I also like their acrylic markers. But fineliners I only got to test recently. So…

The ink in these markers is intensely black and flows quite generously. It also doesn’t dry very quickly. Unfortunately, these markers don’t allow painting over with a white acrylic marker — the ink pushes through. They work best on coated paper (at least 100g/m²). A close match to the MTN marker, though not quite on the same level. Not available in Finnish stores, and I honestly don’t remember where I ordered mine from.

A pen.

Staedtler

Staedtler markers are really good, too — they’re kind of a mix between Pentel and Stylefile. Once dried, you can paint over them. However, they do require a bit more time to dry. The black is, once again, an intense black.

This one features a 12-hour cap-off system, meaning that if you forget to put the cap back on after use, the nib shouldn’t dry out immediately. I’m a bit cautious about that 12-hour “limit” and won’t bother testing it, but it’s there in case that’s a dealbreaker for you. Marker comes in 13 different colors, I’ve used only black. Nib sizes from 0,05 to 1,2mm which also is very good range. And the black ink should be erasable when used on drafting paper.

I picked these up on discount at Penstore, but if I remember correctly, they’re in the average price range anyway. Like most fineliners, this one comfortably lands in the crowded third place.

A pen.

Artline

A classic fineliner from Japanese Shachihata — and actually quite a good one. What else would you expect from a large brand that’s been around forever? Artline is familiar to me since my early days as a graffiti writer, because they also make really good larger permanent markers. And bunch of other markers and pens as well. Anyways, I’d rate this fineliner either on a “weak” second or very “strong” third place.

These work well, though not quite as long as Molotow. But then again, that’s true for nearly all other markers reviewed. Once dry, the ink is a solid deep black. Artline doesn’t dry as quickly as Molotow, but once it does, it works relatively well with acrylic markers. The flow is good, at least when the marker is new.

A pen.

Copic

This fineliner is pretty good one — very close to Pentel in most aspects. Water based ink, and it dries just as fast as Molotow. Intense black and smooth flow.

This is the more “affordable” version of Copic’s lineup, but it’s still pricier than Molotow. The ones I bought were almost €6 each — which makes them over 50% more expensive than most of the markers I use. And also the reason why I’ll be choosing Pentel’s over these on any given day.

A pen.

Copic

This is actually a really, really good marker. Tempted to say that it’s the best one I’ve used so far. At least it does everything it’s supposed to do. Water based pigment ink, dries fast, smooth flow, can be painted over, lasts long… You know the drill.

So, if we’re talking about the quality, it would be the winner. But… It’s also the most expensive marker I’ve used. Over €12 per marker. That’s the price of four Molotow Blackliners, which I think would be a better deal overall. So, to me, this is a no-brainer. If you wanna use this brand in particular, I recommend trying their Classic line-up. Almost as good as SP… and way better than most of the “normally” priced markers.

A pen.

MTN

These fineliners have a good flow, and are very generous in ink — so they’re not ideal for thin paper or slow drawers. Extremely intense black which dries fast. I love that the marker itself is slightly thicker than most, giving it a great grip. I hadn’t used this one before, but so far, I’m really impressed.

For a long time, these weren’t available in Finland, but now you can get them from Make Your Mark. And outside Finland? Either online or (hopefully) from your local MTN distributor. Decent pricing too — only €2.50 per marker. That’s a bargain for a marker this good.

One downside: on certain papers it doesn’t cover acrylic markers that well. Maybe it dries so fast that it doesn’t have enough time to soak in properly to the acrylics?

iPad inside a case, set on table screen up.

iPad

So, every now and then, I get asked if I use an iPad and Procreate for sketching. I don’t. I’m too old school for that. But I have nothing against them, and I know many artists in my genre use them — which is cool, as long as it serves their purpose.

I’ve participated in quite a few Meeting of Styles events, met many artists from around the world, watched them work, and discussed various techniques with them.  And to my surprise a lot of them use tablets — and even phones — for design work. I am really impressed by how seamlessly younger generations, in particular, have integrated modern tools into their creative process.

Okay, I have to admit — we got a “family” iPad last year, complete with an Apple Pencil. It was just a regular 10.9″ iPad (2022 model) that I found on discount. But since it was new enough to support Procreate, of course, I had to install it. Out of curiosity, I tried sketching with it a few times, and honestly, it wasn’t as hard as I expected. I get why so many people like it. For me, it didn’t replace traditional sketching, but it was a nice addition.

Unfortunately, just as I was getting used to the workflow and the Procreate interface, the tablet broke. That was it for me — I didn’t want to buy another one since they’re way too expensive for my taste. And besides, fineliners and regular paper still feel more natural.

A product photo of a white paintmarker.

Uni Posca

How do acrylic markers relate to sketching? Well, in theory, they don’t. In reality? Let me explain.

Sometimes, after finishing a sketch, I realize certain parts could’ve been done differently. I also tend to do very rough pencil sketches before going over them with a fineliner. I don’t know why, but I just don’t like how pencil looks and feels — fineliner feels more, I don’t know, “real”? Because of this, I sometimes redraw sections and need to erase the wrong lines. That’s where acrylic markers come in — as my erasers. If I’m sketching on loose sheets, I can simply redraw and discard the old one. But in a sketchbook, I prefer using a white marker to erase parts instead of tearing out pages. My go-to is the white Uni Posca PC-1M, with a bullet-shaped 0.7mm tip.

The fineliner ink needs to be completely dry for the white marker to cover it properly, and it shouldn’t bleed through. So, I need my white marker to do three things: cover black ink, dry fast, and allow drawing on top of it. Posca markers check all these boxes. So do Molotow acrylic markers, but there’s one key difference: Molotow white leans slightly yellow, while Posca has a cooler, blueish tint. Most of the white paper and sketchbooks I use match Posca’s tone better. Since I scan most of my drawings, the Posca white blends seamlessly into the scanned image. I also prefer Posca’s plastic nib over Molotow’s—it’s similar, but Molotow’s clogs faster, meaning you need to replace or clean it more often (with water or even acetone, if you’re into that).

The only real downside to Posca markers is their lack of sustainability. There’s very little paint in the smaller markers, and the cap is tightly sealed (probably even glued), making it impossible to refill. So when it runs out, you have to buy a whole new marker. Unless you wanna go through some hassle (I’ll explain this soon). Molotow One4All markers, on the other hand, are nearly full, all parts are replaceable, and — best of all — they offer refills in multiple sizes for every color. So, for anything beyond erasing my sketching mistakes, Molotow One4All is my go-to. (Now, can we finally talk about that sponsorship?)

So… the hassle: To my knowledge, Posca doesn’t provide refill inks. However, their larger acrylic markers actually contain much more paint than the smaller ones. So, you can buy any larger paint marker — or even a mop — and use that as a refill for the small marker. Not the cleanest or coolest solution, if you ask me, and it does require some determination… but it’s doable. I’ve done it a few times, but when I’m in the flow, I want to draw — not do maintenance work on my tools.

Price: Poscas are about 3,50-4 euros. In comparison, the Molotow One4All markers are about 4-4,50 euros.

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When the Music's Over.

Instead of turning out the lights maybe You want to check out
the following exit plans? There’s much more to explore, I promise.

The Past

Check out some of the graffiti I created during the 90’s from my Flickr-page. And pay a visit to my old portfolio for all the stuff I’ve done for the music industry. Because it kind of relates to this page.

The Present

My artist portfolio at acton.hrc.fi is a perfect place to check out all the stuff I’ve done as a graffiti artist, from 2012 to present. For example more info about the coloring books of mine.

The Future

The most current stuff will always be posted on my Instagram-account. Naturally anything related to this site will be posted (to some extent) on it’s own Instagram-account.

acton.hrc.fi

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